Rosario’s Pizza

This weekend, having a car and some free time in Queens, I was able to sample a few slices from my “to try” list. Rosario DiMarco, who immigrated to America from Sicily at the age of 12, is the proprietor of @rosariosastoria – an old-school Italian grocery/deli, under the Astoria–Ditmars Boulevard station. The legendary pizza writer Adam Kuban (@itspizzanite) has repeatedly identified Rosario’s as essential. So, this weekend I ducked past the well-stocked shelves of imported olive oil and tinned sardines to the pizza counter in back.

Pictured here, in my car, is the grandma slice. It’s thick enough to look hefty, but is a bit lighter than it seems, utilizing a high-hydration dough. The crust has a very soft interior, but the bottom has some crispness and is well browned – fried in olive oil. This gives it a nice texture contrast – crisp base vs. soft interior – which makes for a great slice. A disciplined sheet of whole-milk mozzarella melts into the surface – supple/silky, not greasy – with a layer of bright, coarse tomato sauce that seeps into the crust. Overall, it’s a sophisticatedly simple slice: one sauce layer, one cheese layer, nothing else, no herbs, no grated cheese – just disciplined technique and confidence in fundamentals expertly executed.