Riverfront Pizza
Cincinnati · New York Style · Aug 2010

Riverfront Pizza and Sports Bar is a 25-year-old neighborhood sports bar in Covington, located in the same parking lot as a popular Waffle House. Its website claims that the menu “specializes in gourmet pizza, delicious hoagies and many other tasty options.”
From the outside, Riverfront looks a little like a 1970s convenience store. The interior is pleasant, resembling a smaller and more local version of Buffalo Wild Wings - hinting at aspirations to character. The menu includes a full assortment of sports-bar food, including "Pizza Box Nachos." We pass on that ambitious creation and order a large 16-inch pepperoni pizza for $10.
The pizza is cut into squares, though these are large and substantial squares rather than the tiny pieces associated with tavern-style pizza. There is a generous amount of tangy sauce, which makes the pizza a little messy. Fortunately, the relatively thick crust gives each piece enough structure to remain manageable.
Unfortunately, the crust is also the pizza's biggest weakness. It tastes as though it was recently frozen and appears undercooked, with an unusually pale color and little crispness. The cheese tastes mostly of mild provolone ...but the pepperoni wasn't bad.
Overall, the pizza is not good: a weak crust surrounded by mostly mediocre components. Still, Riverfront is not pretending to be a destination pizzeria & all pizza is kinda good.
(Also worth noting: My cousin found four spelling errors on the menu (including "Cheedar cheese". I choose to interpret this as restaurant character.)


