Pizza review

Little Miami Brewery

Cincinnati · Neapolitan, New York · Sep 2022

Little Miami Brewery

Straddling the edge of stately Old Milford, just off the Loveland bike trail, and overlooking the Little Miami River is this brick (gas) oven brewery pizzeria. Little Miami’s style might be described a thick heavily-topped Midwestern take on Neapolitan pizza. Pictured here is a pie where the three other toppings are hidden beneath some imperialist fresh mozzarella (spread out rather than dolloped). Arguably, it was excessively cheesed compared to some Platonic ideal of a perfectly balanced pizza, but you’ll never hear me complain about “too much cheese” (What does that even mean? It's like too much money, being too lucky, a car too fast …no matter what they say I’ve done, I’ve never had “too much” fun).

I give @littlemiamibrew a lot of credit for its artfully charted crust - many suburban pizzerias live in fear of the proverbial Nebraskans who complain such pizza is “burnt” (Philistines!) - swipe over to the undercarriage shot for some sweet sweet char. The crust at Little Miami was crisp and rather dense, no fluff or large air bubbles on the inside. I thought it was a quality pizza, although tweaking the dough recipe (and perhaps using a slow rise) could bump it up to a really great pizza.