Pizza review

Little Hill Pizza

Cincinnati · Neapolitan, Wood-fired · Nov 2023

Little Hill Pizza

Named for El Cerrito (‘the Little Hill’) this is another local pizza pop-up - Cincy Pizza Pop-ups being a really dynamic space recently. @littlehillpizza frequently appears at @westsidebrewing and @listermannbrewing; We were able to visit them recently on Thanksgiving Eve at Listermann.

Little Hill does Neapolitan pizza, wood-fired in a Neapolitan oven at about 800 degrees. For crust, they use a combo of flours (Tipo 00, combined with some of the other Tipos). Tipo 00 is the traditional Italian standard flour for a light and airy Neapolitan pizza crust. The addition of some higher protein flours to the mix created a slightly stronger but still soft/puffy crust - just not as airy as the “most Neapolitan” pizzas. The crust was tender and foldable yet very artfully charred, making it one of the best-looking pizzas I’ve seen. Also, Little Hill makes a homemade spicy honey sauce, which was excellent for dipping excess cornicione.

Our pizzas were loaded with cheese and toppings - perhaps not quite the Platonic ideal ratios for Neapolitan pizza, but I’ll never complain about too much cheese (also, Neapolitan authenticity is elusive. The “most authentic” places in Naples itself will put hot dog on pizza). The slices were quite a bit floppy due to the number of toppings and flexible soft crust - a little Neapolitan sog in the middle also being traditional (it’s all very manageable). Finally, the homemade sauce really stood out to us, with a vibrant flavor from the fresh tomatoes and a little bit of spice.

With great pizza: all the individual components taste great on their own. That was the case here. The toppings, sauce, and especially the crust all had great flavor. We tried two pizzas at Listermann and took two to go, including a frozen pizza (they sell frozen pizzas, which may lead to my first review of such pies in the future) …This, in itself, speaks to the regard in which I hold Little Hill. This is a great pizza & @littlehillpizza is an excellent addition to the vibrant Cincy pizza scene.