Pizza review

Antico Forno La Pieve

Italy · Arezzo · Roman / Al Taglio, Bakery / Focaccia · Apr 2025

Antico Forno La Pieve

Less traveled than its nearby neighbors Florence and Siena, the eastern Tuscan city of Arezzo boasts impressive masterpieces of its own - namely, Piero della Francesca’s 1452 “Legend of the True Cross” fresco* and Antico Forno La Pieve’s square slices.

Focusing on the latter, Antico’s “pizza al taglio” (pizza by the cut) square slices are served in paper sleeves. The crust echoes classic Italian focaccia, notable for its thick, airy crumb and substantial chew. Using a generous amount of olive oil, the dough is flavorful and substantial - heavier than say a Sicilian slice. The crust has considerable charring (more than say your typical Nebraskan would enjoy), reflecting an appropriately robust bake and lending a smoky, slightly bitter depth that contrasts nicely with the dough’s softer interior. Given that it’s artichoke season (remember Pienza’s Artichoke Festival approaching), we opted for artichoke slices—a brilliant choice.

I might describe this as a sophisticatedly simple slice, relying heavily on the exceptional quality of its Italian ingredients. Bravo & salute. The next time you’re in Arezzo, Antico Forno La Pieve is a highly recommended stop.

*The Legend of the True Cross fresco cycle narrates the mythical history of the wood used for Christ’s cross, from Adam’s death to the brutal Byzantine-Persian War of 602-628 where the two sides fought (among other things) over who controlled the “True Cross”