Best Cecina

Cecina is not a wheat pizza at all. The batter is chickpea flour, water, olive oil and salt, poured thin into a wide pan and baked in a very hot oven until the surface sets golden and faintly cracked and the inside stays soft. It is the same preparation Liguria calls farinata, and around Pisa and Livorno it is sold by the wedge over the counter, often from the same case as the focaccia and the small tomato pizzette. It is included here because it is served as pizza is served, cut and handed over on paper, and because judging it on crust, bake and balance still works.