Pizza review

Twelve08

Cincinnati · Neapolitan, Wood-fired · Apr 2024

Twelve08

Located on 1208 Springfield Pike in stately Wyoming (‘The Brooklyn of Northwest Hamilton County’), Twelve08 is a wood-fired pizzeria that recently celebrated its 4.5 week anniversary. The first thing you notice when you enter is ‘Claudia’ a large wood-fired oven by @mugnainiovens. An Italian craftsman actually flew in for the installation / set-up. So, this is a legitimate wood-fired pizzeria, as opposed to the false promise of many “brick oven” or “wood stone” places, which often actually use gas… A prominent oven and stacks of wood is one of the best signals of a quality pizzeria. It’s also a signal of thoughtful proprietors who care about doing things right. Really, everything about the design and layout of @twelve08.wyoming signaled a commitment to craft.

We ordered the ‘Applewood’ sans bacon (roasted garlic, mozzarella, honeycrisp apple, shallot, bacon, and basil), as one of us is vegetarian. ‘Twas delicious. Twelve08’s style is a kind of thicker Neapolitan. The crust was leopard spotted, as is the ideal. But it’s not super thin as they do in Naples (which frankly can be tricky / messy, with the crust too thin to hold up the toppings). Rather, the thicker crust here created a structurally sound pie, capable of supporting plenty of cheese and toppings. While not full of air bubbles (they systematically pop them while baking), the crust was also not dense, but rather pleasantly light and airy. It had a very nice flavor & could be eat on its own or dipped in their quite bright tomato sauce. Also, the cheese was plentiful here, with very flavorful mozzarella.

Overall, this was a very well crafted pizza. Style-wise, it was a thick cheesy take on wood-fired / Neapolitan. So, I might deem it “Midwestern-style Wood Fired” Pizza. Categorizations aside, it was delicious: give @twelve08.wyoming a try.