Middle Brow

The best pizza in America? It might be… It could be…

This 2024 James Beard semifinalist serves sourdough-based Neapolitan pizza from a relaxed space off Mozart Street. Rather than a 1000-degree wood-fired oven, their pies are baked in a two-deck oven set at 785°F - an approach executed with a high level of technical precision.

Purists will say the best way to judge a pizzeria is by its margherita. But out of loyalty to my tastebuds, I opted for the “pepperoni” pizza: fresh mozzarella, pepperoni, and tarragon. All ingredients are sourced from nearby farms.

Starting with the crust, which was outstanding: The flour comes from @meadowlark_mill_and_farm in what they deem “the driftless region of Wisconsin”, and had some wheaty nuance. Made with a sourdough starter, the dough had a fermented depth and subtle sourdough tang. The cornicione was well-risen with a visible open crumb, soft but not overly crisp with a slight chew, and blistered evenly - It’s what you might call “leopard spotted”. It was delicious bread on its own.

The sauce was bright and naturally sweet, applied in a thin layer. Mozzarella appeared in modest pools - creamy and fresh - and was complemented by finely grated hard cheese, adding a bit of depth, post-bake. The pepperoni was thin-sliced, not oily, savory, and evenly distributed.

I would say every element of this pizza - the crust, cheese, topping, & sauce - was excellent on its own. Clearly sourced and prepared with great thoughtfulness. Those elements came together for a well-balanced pizza - no element dominated and every bite was delicious. It was, quite simply, a perfectly executed Neapolitan pizza.

Is it the best pizza in America? Holy Cow - That’s an impossible question - no one has tried every pizza in the country, let alone under comparable conditions. But this is the highest rating I’ve ever given a pizza. So now, if you were to ask me my pick of the best, it would be Middlebrow.